Wine judging highs and lows
Tuesday 30 June
I took up the offer from the Australian Wine Research Institute (AWRI) to attend a one-day version of its Advanced Wine Assessment Course for budding show judges yesterday.
A mixed bag of journalists, wine buyers, and sommeliers turned up to the event looking slightly anxious and were presented with two flights of 20 wines to judge during the day. The variation in marks from gold down to commended for virtually every wine (and, often the disparity with the medals they won at the International Wine Challenge) was an eye-opener.
To throw a spanner in the works it turned out all the wines in each flight were duplicated, and one national journalist, who shall remain unnamed, admitted they gave the same wine both a bronze and a gold. I think we probably need to go on the four-day version of the course.
While I did pretty well in the main with consistent marking and in line with the majority, I am prepared to confess I gave the 2008 Nottage Hill Riesling a gold medal, writing it had kerosene and lime notes, lovely concentration, was well defined with fresh acidity on the finish. Never did I think I would say this, but… Go Nottage Hill!! Fortunately, one other person thought it was worthy of a gold too – none other than Jancis Robinson MW, OBE would you believe (big sigh of relief that I’m not a complete tasting muppet)! In the International Wine Challenge, it managed a lowly commended. Oh dear.
Another wine had way too much brettanomyces leatheriness for me. The guidelines stated faulty wines shouldn’t be given an award, so it didn’t get one. But others loved its ‘farmyardy’ character, and it won a gold at the IWC. What does this tell you?
So, we all have different palates and, as any wine judge will admit, there are flaws to the process.
The AWRI has already put 800 people through the full course in Oz and it will probably be held in the UK again next year. Do it, if you can get an invite.
Off to dinner with Groote Post tonight. More on that later…
Henschke whites hit the spot
Sunday 28 June
The Eden Valley’s Henschke family is best known for its red wines but the whites were the biggest surprise when I met up with owners Prue and Stephen last week.
The couple’s icon wine, Hill of Grace, and its Mount Edelstone (both 100% Shiraz from 90 year old plus vines) usually take the headlines. Yes, they were both fabulous wines – but with all the hype surrounding them, you’d expect that.
Its 2006 Eden Valley Riesling a.k.a Julius and 2007 Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc ‘Coralinga’ were deeee-licious. Both were very European in style – delicate and restrained - with fresh acidity and a very reasonable 12.5% alcohol.
It would have been difficult to guess where they were from – and Australia wouldn’t immediately spring to mind. I asked others where they would have placed the Sauvignon Blanc if they’d tasted it blind - Observer columnist Tim Atkin MW suggested northern Italy while Decanter’s Tina Gellie said Austria.
Its noble rot Riesling was also delicious with just 11% alcohol and zesty acidity, making an unusually refreshing sweetie.
Biodynamic bits
Next year, Prue and Stephen should get their organic certification. They are also working biodynamically but I’m not convinced by some of its tenets, so I ask viticulturalist Prue: isn’t it a load of mumbo-jumbo? Her response? “It’s the best-ever composting system created.” In her view, biodynamics is mainly about improving the organic matter of the soil with the compost she makes using cow manure, grape skins and green waste. She also uses biodynamic preparations but admits she isn’t sure what they do – but it works. So, forget the lunar phases, it’s all about what comes out the rear end of a cow!
Screwcap and the next big thing…
In 2002, Stephen put the Hill of Grace under screwcap. An icon red wine under screwcap? Few would be so brave. Stephen said: “We are convinced by screwcap and we could not justify putting a wine under cork when you have so much product recall. When you have Hill of Grace the complaint situation is really serious because it is a treasure. But I admit screwcap isn’t pretty.”
Unlike many producers, Stephen is not convinced screwcap is the be-all and end-all of closures. I get the impression that many Kiwi and Aussie producers have converted to screwcap and see it as the ultimate closure. However, Henschke trialled its 2004 Henry’s Seven under glass closure Vino Lok for the first time. Its 2005 Hill of Roses and 2005 Tappa Pass Shiraz have since been sealed under Vino Lok. Unfortunately the Vino Lok is prohibitively expensive and at the London Wine Fair, the Vino Lok team admitted it would always be a premium closure. I mention this to Stephen, who agrees but argues if enough Aussie producers adopted it, economy of scale would bring down those prices.
Lanson, ‘99 claret and a pint of beer
Tuesday 23 June
I’m having a couple of days off after a 14-day working marathon but there’s still time to update my blog…
Champagne Lanson launched its new Extra Age Brut at Vinexpo and Wimbledon this week
The new blend has been release ahead of the company’s 250th anniversary in 2010 and, in keeping with the house style, hasn’t undergone any malolactic fermentation. It’s a blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay from Grand Cru and Premier Cru vineyards, and takes parcels from the 1999, 2002 and 2003 vintages. All the wines in the blend have undergone at least five years on lees and it’s incredibly yeasty, almost mushroomy.
My tasting notes said: “Round and developed. Baked apple, Christmas cake fruit, and almonds on the nose. Lovely concentration and definition in the mouth with fresh acidity.”
It’ll set you back fifty of your finest English pounds but I think that’s fair. I’ve been watching Lanson closely for the past year and they’ve been steadily upping their profile and have just launched a major consumer campaign. We’ll see if that translates into sales.
On a completely different theme…Here’s a quick update from the 1999 Bordeaux tasting on my last post. All participants were asked to mark their favourites with Ch. Latour, Lafite, Palmer and Lafleur coming out victorious with Ausone and Vieux Chateau Certan runners up.
Interestingly, two wines that were, in my opinion, spoiled by brettanomyces made it into the best value category (Gruaud-Larose and Haut Bailly). It seems that other people like that farmyardy aroma it gives off but it was way too overpowering for me. Perhaps I’m getting too pernickety – I blame this darn Master of Wine course.
Now, back to wee break: mostly getting sunburnt in Greenwich Park and drinking Deuchar’s IPA. Life is good.
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1999 Bordeaux: Ten years on
Friday 19 June
London-based merchant Bordeaux Index put its-first ever ‘Ten years on (1999) Claret Tasting’ yesterday for the press and customers. As I couldn’t make it to the press tasting, I ended up tasting with the customers. The clientele were immaculately turned out: suited and booted which, made a nice change to us scruffy journos drinking fine wine in our t-shirt and jeans.
I confess I’m no Bordeaux expert but I’ll give you my opinion on the duff wines and stars of the show: the Right Bank was largely disappointing yesterday and they’re not holding up well. The best wine, Ch. Angelus (£850 In Bond) was in magnum, and was unsurprisingly much fresher and alive than the rest in 75cl. Many are past their best with tannins starting to dry out and, there were still some green underripe notes on a couple including Gazin and La Grave a Pomerol.
On the Left Bank, the first growths were the stars - quel surprise – but Palmer was stonking too. Having only ever tried one first growth – Ch. Margaux – this was a real treat. I was blown away by Mouton-Rothschild. It had incredible aromatics of rosemary, black pepper and roast lamb. My notes read ‘AMAZING!!!! Delicate, elegant, silky, with lots of fresh acidity. Unique.’ Not bad hey. And, I quite liked the label too. Each year, Mouton has a different label design and in ’99 it was a ram: I’m an Aries so I guess I’m biased. If anyone fancies buying my case, do send an email!
Approving murmurs surrounded third growth Palmer and at £850 a case In Bond compared to the first growths ranging from £1650-£3500, I’d rather have a few cases of that.
You might’ve head of brettanomyces: a spoilage yeast that produces aromas of manure or elastoplasts. I’m sorry to say second-growths Ch. Rauzan Segla and Gruaud-Larose (at more than £300 a case In Bond) were offenders on the brett front, as well as Haut Bailly. Come on guys, if we’re paying that much for your wine, we don’t expect faults.
Thanks to Bordeaux Index for a treat of a tasting though.
Priorat: the lowdown on its new appellation system
Wednesday 17 June
If you’re a member of just-drinks you can get access to my article on Priorat’s new appellation system at just-drinks.com
If not, here’s a full run down on what’s happening in the Catalan region.
The Priorat Consejo Regulador has just approved a new Burgundy-like pyramid for its wines from the 2007 vintage.
At the bottom of the pyramid will be generic Priorat DOCa wines. Sitting above this, will be 12 named villages such as Gratallops, Poboleda, Escala Dei and Falset. These villages will now be able to label their wines as Falset and so on.
René Barbier’s Clos Mogador sits alone at the top of the pyramid. Funnily enough René was the instigator of the proposal 15 years ago and his vineyard has managed to achieve its own domaine status…
Barbier was keen to stress that there were great terroirs in Priorat and they needed to be championed. ‘People are obsessed with brands in Spain but it’s not Vega Sicilia that is important it’s the terroir. There are great terroirs in Priorat and we need to talk about them.’
Gratallops-based producer and supporter of the changes, Alvaro Palacios, criticised transient Spanish brands and claimed the region needed to emphasise the unchanging individual areas of Priorat. ‘Gratallops will never disappear and it makes a brand for everyone,’ he said.
However, I’m not sure this is a great idea for anyone apart from the producers. Isn’t it better to know the good producers with the old vines and low yields than which village it comes from? While wine has been made here for centuries, it has only recently witnessed a renaissance. The phrase running before it can walk springs to mind.
Barbier’s next door neighbour Carlos Pastrana at Clos de L’Obac, doesn’t think much of the idea either. If you wish to make an Gratallops wine, all the fruit must come from that area. ‘This is a marketing question,’ he said. ‘The majority of the wineries buy and sell grapes from all over the region.’
How the authorities will keep a check on which grapes go into which vat is another issue. Barbier told me each grower will have an electronic card that identifies the parcel’s provenance when it arrives at the winery and can be swiped like a bank card. Come on guys, I’m not convinced there won’t be some sneaky cross blending.
What do you think? Too much too soon? Greater confusion for the trade and consumer? Would love to hear your thoughts.