Amphoras at Hamilton Russell (photograph: Amelia Aragon - thanks chick!)
The New World is not all stainless steel tanks and modern winemaking methods. Many producers are going back to more ‘natural winemaking’ and one of South Africa’s leading Chardonnay producers is planning on fermenting 10-15% of its wine in clay amphoras next year.
Hamilton Russell Vineyards in the Hemel-en-Aarde valley has started experiementing with amphora. In 2009 the Chardonnay component (12%) of its Ashbourne Sandstone Sauvignon Blanc Chardonnay of the 09 blend was amphora fermented.
In 2011, it plans to ferment and mature 10-15% of its straight Chardonnay in amphora – a wine that has become renowned worldwide.
Owner Anthony Hamilton Russell says: ‘People obsess with tasting a barrel influence in their wines but we are experimenting with amphora stoneware to see if they can provide the maturation of a barrel without the flavour pick up.’
He reports that the shape of the amphora promotes natural circulation in the vessel during fermentation. The wine will stay on gross lees for 6-7 months and then go to tank for blending with the barrel-fermented component. As the clay vessels allow micro-oxygenation it mimics barrel ageing.
However, it hasn’t all been plain sailing up to now. They originally tried terracotta amphoras but they were too porous and have moved to clay. Another issue is the amphoras are quite pricey. ‘We need to negotiate harder with the potter who makes our amphora. They are still priced as ornamental vessels and we need to get the prices closer to those of our barrels,’ he said.
If things go according to plan, the wine will be released in 2013.
Nick Pegna, MD of Berry Bros & Rudd in Hong Kong a.k.a Lord of Asia has his 60 seconds to discuss Bordeaux 2009, the Hong Kong wine scene and drunken prawns.
Looking to invest in a wine that won’t cost you an arm and a leg but could pay handsome rewards? The word on the street is buy Chateau Lynch-Bages.
While researching another topic entirely for Decanter magazine, Lynch-Bages was the hot tip on all the wine merchants’ lips. Since the 2009 vintage was released, there’s a belief that this Pauillac chateau has set out its stall for the future – it is going to be a wine for the rich.
I remember my dad buying the 2000 when it came out en primeur as something to drink. It was a little more expensive than the usual crap he buys but it wasn’t overpriced. He’s now seen what it’s worth today (£1579, according to the new market data tool at Fine+Rare Wines) and can’t bring himself to drink something so expensive (I’ve offered to help him out if he needs some encouragement pulling the corks).
With the release of the 2009 at an all-time high, it has raised the bar for the future. Simon Staples, fine wine director at Berry Bros & Rudd, advises: “I would buy any vintage of Lynch-Bages under £700. The 2009 vintage has marked a new price point that won’t come down.”
Inevitably, the Far East has boosted demand for the wine and the price has risen accordingly. Alan Liu, sommelier at The French Window in Hong Kong, explains: “Lynch-Bages is really easy to pronounce here. We sell it to them as ‘Lansey Barr’ as that’s how it is said in Cantonese.”
So, how much can you expect to pay at the moment? The 2005 (91 Parker points) started life at under £500 en primeur, it’s now trading at £796 – which is still relatively good value when you look at the 2000 which is trading at £1579 and the 2009 at £1036.
However, the value really lies in those lesser vintages where Lynch-Bages performed well. The 2008 (91-93 points) can be picked up for the £600 mark, the 2006 (92 points) for £620 and the 2004 (also 92 points) for £618. I think I’m going to follow my own advice and pick up a few cases.
Staples adds: “Lynch-Bages has always done the investor very well. The quality of the wine has got infinitely better in the past years.”
Gary Boom, founder of fine wine merchant Bordeaux Index has his 60 seconds to discuss the 2009’s, his hot tips on wine investment, cleaning cars outside his local Tesco, and his love of won ton soup….
I have a fuzzy head. It’s no surprise – an evening with Louis Roederer and Cristal flowing will inevitably end in feeling jaded the next day. Happily, I woke up to the pleasant reality that I was now the Louis Roederer Emerging Wine Writer of the Year, which alleviated the headache – as did a couple of ibuprofen.
It was my last night in the UK before I head back to New Zealand, and the top floor of the Gherkin (or the Artichoke as my sister called it) is an amazing place to sup Champagne with 360 degree views of London town.
It was made even better when I won the Emerging Award. You work your ass off as a young freelancer to gain credibility – and make a living – and it’s great to gain acknowledgement from the industry. The £1500 prize is also helpful. I have already spent it twice over in my head.
Fellow northerners had a good night. Simon Woods walked away with the International Online Columnist of the Year and Tom Bruce-Gardyne from bonnie Scotland won the Regional title.
Other winners were…the FT’s John Stimpfig for International Wine Feature Writer of the Year, jancisrobinson.com taking International Wine Website of the Year and The World of Fine Wine taking International Wine Publication of the year.
Back to NZ now with a day in Hong Kong to check out what’s happening in the Asian wine world.
