Zin the next big thing in the Languedoc?
Thursday 13 August
Forget the traditional Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre blends in the Languedoc: the next big thing could be Zinfandel.
Following the EU wine reform, Zinfandel can be planted in the region and one producer has some 17 year-old vines ready to make some burly wines.
Louis Marie Teisserenc of Domaine de L’Arjolle in the Côtes de Thongue area is leading the Zinfandel revolution. He first planted Zin vines in 1992 on an experimental basis after a reconnaissance mission to California. Impressed by its acid retention in Napa’s warm climes, he was sure it could adapt to the Languedoc.
“Our Mediterranean climate is similar to the Californian coast and Napa. Now we are allowed to plant Zinfandel under the vin de France designation, we will plant more.”
There’s plenty of interest in Teisserenc’s Zin planting including Pierre Colbert at Château des Flaugergues so watch this space. Let’s hope they don’t start making White Zin out of it.
Lenz Moser: gunning for Grüner
Monday 6 July
Has Lenz turned into an oompa loompa?
Lenz Moser, grandson of the man who put his name to a vine-trellising system is a smart cookie, with a New World marketing brain.
Not only is his packaging modern and easy-to-understand, his wines are approachable and offer the consumer what they want: clean, characterful and refreshing. He also has a USP: he only does Grüner Veltliner. No messing about with Riesling or Zweigelt. If you don’t like it, lump it.
He’s got his marketing savvy from an old friend: Robert Mondavi, and ended up working for him as European General Manager from 1997 until 2004, when Constellation bought the Californian winery.
The Laurenz V label was born in 2004 and now sells 35,000 cases a year in more than 30 countries. There’s no winery, no vineyards and he contracts his winemaking to Fred Loimer. By the end of 2010, he aims to sell 50-60,000 cases annually despite having giving up listings at both Tesco and Asda recently. Lenz said: “We pulled out because we weren’t prepared to trade down and discount our wine any further.” It is now concentrating on the UK on-trade.
Nevertheless, the US is guzzling his Grüner like there’s no tomorrow. “The US is our biggest market and sales are up by high double digit figures despite a severe recession.”
Why is it so successful? They have built a brand giving consumers what they want, at the right price. It’s not rocket science. The ‘Friendly’ label is just that: easy to drink, yet still typically Grüner. “I call it the international style of Grüner . The old style of Grüner was too dry, too acidic, and too peppery. Austria prided itself on making austere wines. It was exhausting for the consumer to drink.”
Global warming
Climate change is hitting the Kamptal region and he is now planning for the future. “We are looking at lesser sites that currently struggle to ripen,” said Lenz.
“If Grüner gets too much sun it gets too alcoholic. The key to the aromatics is these long hang times and in the Kamptal we are going higher to find cooler sites,” he said. Grüner is a long ripener, taking between 120 to 140 days to ripen from flowering. If it gets hotter, the ripening time will be reduced and you won’t get those lovely aromatics or fresh acidity. In short, a boring wine. Other solutions could be vines planted on cooler north or west-facing slopes.
Musings on Austrian Wine’s new logo
Wines from Austria replaced its wine bottle logo last month with a new circular symbol in the colours of the Austrian flag. The phrase ‘A Taste of Culture’ has been shortened to ‘Taste Culture’. A marketing design company came up with the idea, which is more modern, but it isn’t exactly revolutionary, is it?
While Lenz agrees the Austrian Wine Marketing manager, Willi Klinger, was right to create a new design, he has his reservations. “I like continuity in marketing. It takes so much time before a message reaches the consumer and every time we have a new manager at the marketing board, we get a new logo.” He also questions the costs involved.
On Organics
While Austria prides itself on its organic viticulture, Lenz won’t be converting. His father practised organics from the 1970s but Lenz stopped in 1993. Why? “We gave it up for business reasons. The grapes were no good. Austria is a cool climate and it rains during the season and at harvest. With organics you have no effective means against mildew or botrytis. If you lose one-third of your crop and then the grapes you harvest are no good, then you have to start thinking, what’s the point?”
“In theory, I’m pro organic, and I’ve seen many vineyards in Australia, Argentina and Chile where the climate is perfect for it.”
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Origin: does anyone care?
Tuesday 19 May
Echo Falls is the latest wine brand to have a multi-country range.
The Californian mass-market brand is extending its reach to Chile. It will launch a Sauvignon Blanc and a Shiraz under the Echo Falls label.
It follows in the footsteps of Lindemans, which moved into South Africa and Chile in 2006; and Blossom Hill that now produces South African, Chilean and Italian wine under the label.
What does all this mean? Does origin matter anymore? I’d argue most consumers couldn’t give a monkeys. Wine Intelligence research shows country of origin sits a lowly fourth in order of importance when buying wine in the UK. Grape variety and promotion are the two most important purchasing cues.
Of course, for fine wine, country (and region) of origin does matter. The allure of Domaine de la Romanee Conti and the whole concept of terroir lies in its sense of place. But consumers don’t care about terroir; many can’t even pronounce it.
Consumers want a brand they can trust and a bargain. It’s a reality and a sad one. You might not like Echo Falls but the truth is, it sells. And that’s a lot more than you can say for many wines.