Rebecca Gibb

freelance drinks journalist

Louis Roederer Emerging Wine Writer of the Year 2010

Retailers accused of paying ‘lip service’ to the green issue

Sunday 25 October

I’ve just attended a debate, which asked whether the promotion of environment credentials is a marketing ploy. The room was half-full at best, which is a sad indication of the importance of the green issue in the UK wine industry. Or perhaps everyone had gone on half-term a day early? Compared to the full-house at the recent low alcohol forum, it was a poor showing – I didn’t spot one major retailer.

It appears many wine producers are going green for the right reasons but retailers were accused of using the green message to suit their own agendas – making a profit. Unfortunately the supermarkets weren’t there to defend themselves, but there were some damning comments.

Michael Cox, UK director for Wines of Chile, which is one of the main producing countries leading the sustainability drive along with South Africa and New Zealand, said, “Most multiple retailers will pay lip service to green initiatives.”

The main problem is consumers see wine as a natural product and that means the word sustainable or organic on a wine label has less meaning than organic on a bunch of carrots. It goes some way to explaining why sales of organic wine have not kept pace with the rest of the organic industry. Cox added, “Having a social conscience does not appear to sell more bottles. The consumer is not prepared to pay a premium for organic wine because they don’t understand the concept. ”

Retailers are clearly doing things to help the environment such as the plastic bag reuse scheme but a cynic would argue it is only because the authorities have ruled they must reduce their plastic bag use. Angela Mount implied retailers didn’t give a damn about saving the environment – it is all about saving money. If the changes didn’t save money, then they wouldn’t do them. She argued bulk shipping and lightweight bottles improved margins for retailers, adding “I don’t believe the green issue is driven by the consumer. It is often a convenient ploy to reduce costs.”

Peter Darbyshire, MD of UK importer and distributor PLB agreed, “The green solution is to move the point of packaging as close to the point of sale. It is moving to the UK but sadly driven by retailers’ price motivation rather than the green agenda.”

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Origin: does anyone care?

Tuesday 19 May

Echo Falls is the latest wine brand to have a multi-country range.

The Californian mass-market brand is extending its reach to Chile. It will launch a Sauvignon Blanc and a Shiraz under the Echo Falls label.

It follows in the footsteps of Lindemans, which moved into South Africa and Chile in 2006; and Blossom Hill that now produces South African, Chilean and Italian wine under the label.

What does all this mean? Does origin matter anymore? I’d argue most consumers couldn’t give a monkeys. Wine Intelligence research shows country of origin sits a lowly fourth in order of importance when buying wine in the UK. Grape variety and promotion are the two most important purchasing cues.

Of course, for fine wine, country (and region) of origin does matter. The allure of Domaine de la Romanee Conti and the whole concept of terroir lies in its sense of place. But consumers don’t care about terroir; many can’t even pronounce it.

Consumers want a brand they can trust and a bargain. It’s a reality and a sad one. You might not like Echo Falls but the truth is, it sells. And that’s a lot more than you can say for many wines.

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