Zin the next big thing in the Languedoc?
Thursday 13 August
Forget the traditional Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre blends in the Languedoc: the next big thing could be Zinfandel.
Following the EU wine reform, Zinfandel can be planted in the region and one producer has some 17 year-old vines ready to make some burly wines.
Louis Marie Teisserenc of Domaine de L’Arjolle in the Côtes de Thongue area is leading the Zinfandel revolution. He first planted Zin vines in 1992 on an experimental basis after a reconnaissance mission to California. Impressed by its acid retention in Napa’s warm climes, he was sure it could adapt to the Languedoc.
“Our Mediterranean climate is similar to the Californian coast and Napa. Now we are allowed to plant Zinfandel under the vin de France designation, we will plant more.”
There’s plenty of interest in Teisserenc’s Zin planting including Pierre Colbert at Château des Flaugergues so watch this space. Let’s hope they don’t start making White Zin out of it.
The new brand: France
Tuesday 11 August
Vin de Pays will no longer exist as I explained in my last blog, and nor will Vin de Table.
The classification will be no sad loss. Its wines have been poo-poohed by producers and consumers in the past. They have an image of low quality, mass-produced wine (although some fabulous VdT wines from Les Caves de Pyrene prove it ain’t necessarily so).
Vin de Table will now become Vin de France (or equivalent depending on where you make your wine) and for the first time ever the label will be able to state the vintage and grape variety on the label.
This move is a massive boost for major volume producers in the Languedoc and the rest of Europe. Big companies will now be able to make their wines relatively free of constraints and produce commercial wines under a new classification that is simple to understand for the international market. With grape varieties almost becoming brands in their own right, the ability to write Merlot or Chardonnay will also help Europe compete with the New World on foreign markets.
While this is opportunity that will benefit the big operations – think Les Grands Chais de France, Gerard Bertrand etc – smaller producers are also eyeing up the prospect of declassifying from their current Vin de Pays status to Vin de France. Why? Well, what’s the point in becoming an IGP, and having to jump through bureaucratic hoops if you can now put the grape variety and vintage on the label?
Marc Parce, winemaker at La Rectorie, a relatively small producer in Banyuls is attracted by the prospect of Vin de France: “Why would we mess around with the rules under IGP when you can make wines with the grape variety on with Vin de France? I won’t be able to resist using it,” he said.
However fellow member of Terroiristes du Midi group, Pierre Colbert of Chateau Flaugergues doesn’t share Parce’s view. “If you are a small producer you are not going to use this wide-ranging Vin de France classification. I think people think that this change is a good thing for the big negociants for them to do their blends. Smaller producers will use a more specific, smaller designation.”
Will consumers respect the Vin de France designation? They probably don’t care. Let’s face it the AOC system is no guarantee of quality.
A new reality for the Languedoc
Saturday 8 August
I’m in the Languedoc trying to understand what the European Union’s wine reform means for producers here. And I’ve opened a can of worms.
It is incredibly complex – even the producers are confused - many are burying their heads in the sand. I am meeting up with various members of Les Terroiristes du Midi who are pretty savvy but there’s still conflicting messages.
The main issue is that Vin de Pays will no longer exist by the end of 2011. It will be replaced with IGPs (Indication Geographique Protegee). In the biggest Vin de Pays producing region in France this is an issue that I’m investigating for Wine Business International.
So, what are the major changes we are likely to see in the Languedoc as a result of the reform?
It appears many Vin de Pays will disappear, swallowed up by larger IGPs. Producers and syndicat presidents estimate that the 50 or so Vin de Pays areas in the Languedoc will merge into fewer than 10 IGPs. It’s great news for us all that the system will be simpler; but it’s inevitably going to upset producers in those smaller areas who have a sentimental attachment to their wine-growing areas.
Expect to see labels saying IGP Pays d’Oc instead of Vin de Pays d’Oc in the future. Some may even make the change their labels as soon as the 2009 vintage
There’s a three-year transition period for all this to take effect so the consequences of this reform won’t be felt fully until 2012. Until then, there will be a lot of confusion and no doubt plenty of upheaval.
Vin de Pays wines will now be governed by the INAO, which also has responsibility for AOCs/AOPs, bringing the two under the same ruling body for the first time. ANIVIT, the former Vin de Pays governing body will now be responsible for Vin de Table wines only, now known as Vin de France.
Phew that’s enough for now.
In my next blog, I’ll update you on the Vin de Table changes: what that means for France’s competitiveness on the world market and why Vin de Pays producer may not bother with IGP and declassify their wines to the lowest rung of the ladder.
The dawn of a new era for European wine
Friday 31 July
It’s the big day tomorrow. After years of negotiations and planning the European Union wine reform finally kicks in.
According to the EU it will “phase out wasteful and expensive market intervention measures and allow the budget to be used for more positive, proactive measures which will boost the competitiveness of European wines.”
The reform will see a massive restructuring of the wine sector. It includes a voluntary, three-year grubbing-up scheme to provide an alternative for uncompetitive producers and to remove surplus wine from the market.
Subsidies for crisis distillation will be phased out and the money, allocated in national envelopes, can be used for measures like wine promotion on third country markets, restructuring and investment in modernisation of vineyards and cellars. However you may remember earlier this month in an article I have written for decanter.com, Mariann Fischer Boel, Commissioner for Agriculture and Rural Development, said the uptake had been disappointing.
Today, Fischer Boel reiterated her views on the reform. “Member States and producers have a great opportunity to make the best use of the new wine regime to build on Europe’s international reputation for excellence. I truly believe this marks a turning point in our wine sector’s history. But I must urge Member States to show urgency in using the new funds, which are available. Money from the national envelopes must be used by 15th October, or else it will be lost.”
The reform will also simplify labelling rules.
The restrictive planting rights system will also be abolished at EU level from 1 January 2016 onwards, with the possibility for Member States to keep it until December 2018 if they wish.