Yields in Marlborough will be down significantly in 2010, if things at Jackson Estate are anything to go by. The crop here is down 25-30% on initial estimates. Ask around the region and the story seems to be the same.
A really cool spring limited the potential crop size and with little rain since mid-January, the average bunch is much smaller than expected. Geoff Woollcombe, chief viticulturalist at Jackson, explained that Sauvignon Blanc bunches were picked at around 150 grams last year and just 110g this year; it’s a similar story for Pinot Noir, falling from the usual 120g per bunch to less than 100g.
But it seems good things do come in small packages: the Pinot Noir heading into the destemmer looked really healthy, and they were tasty. Unfortunately, there were a few pesky earwigs, which made their way from the bunches and down my top: it was certainly a safer place than the destemmer.
The small crop has brought vintage ahead of estimates and the winery should finish picking this week: a fortnight ahead of 2009.
Predictions are that the 2011 harvest will be small again: buds destined for next year’s cane have been hit by the cold spring.
The word on Blenheim’s streets is that nature could resolve the region’s oversupply situation in the next 18 months in Marlborough.
I swore I would never work in a cellar again after a terrible vintage experience in Australia in 2006. Rose-tinted glasses firmly on, I’ve agreed to do a week’s work at Jackson Estate in Marlborough
Ominously the booking reference code for my flight to Marlborough read “HEL” – the omens could have been better.
Luckily Jackson’s winemaker and the cellar boys have eased me in gently today. I’ve plunged a few tanks of Pinot Noir: a great workout for both arms and shoulders. The only downside was wearing the safety harness to prevent any falls into the open vats – it’s remarkably similar to wearing a baby bouncer. Not a great look but it gave the American cellar hand a good laugh.
However, I have managed to redeem myself by borrowing a rather fetching pair of leopard print wellies from the owners of Jackson. Who said cellar work can’t be glamorous?
The day started off at 7 a.m. in the vineyards with their band of Thai pickers. It was a warm and sunny morning but the Thai team were rugged up for all eventualities with balaclavas, gilets and hats. Nevertheless they picked at an impressive clip and we were putting the fruit into the destemmer (and grape juice in my eyes – nasty stuff) and off to the tank within hours.
For the next week, I’ll be reporting every day from Jackson, giving you the inside track on the 2010 vintage and the latest happenings in Marlborough with interviews and videos.
NB: This blog can also be read at Harpers throughout the week
New Zealand has become renowned for its Pinot Noir. There are some great examples out there – Felton Road and Ata Rangi are the true greats while Waitaki Pinot from Ostler and Valli, and Pyramid Valley are up there in my opinion. But there is a lot of expensive dross.
I was invited to judge for tizwine.com yesterday and while I can’t reveal the outcome, after almost 60 Pinot Noirs, I felt depressed. Admittedly we were tasting the 2008 vintage, which wasn’t great by any means but my God they were boring.
Too many ‘blah’ wines as one of my fellow judges aptly put it: “lacklustre”, “soft”, “falls away on the finish”, note after note read. And a rather strange metallic note ran through one of the flights. If you’re a winemaker and can tell me why, we judges would be interested to know. Of course, there were a few good wines but nothing that would suggest New Zealand is renowned globally for its Pinot Noir.
Perhaps it was the selection that was sent in but there are clearly major improvements needed to bring the general standard up. And the prices that are being asked for them? The phrase ‘daylight robbery’ springs to mind.
I can’t stand Pinotage. It smells of rotten meat and stilton, which isn’t attractive. I know I will incur the wrath of the South African wine industry for saying it but I’ve always been taught honesty is the best policy.
Outside of South Africa, I see little reason for producers to make it. I can understand it’s a signature variety for South Africans and when it comes up in a blind tasting I’m always pleased as you can spot it a mile off. But with the wide array of varieties on offer around the world, why on earth would you make Pinotage outside of South Africa?
I ask this question as during the Easter weekend, I popped into Ascension Wine Estate in Matakana. I was staying over the road from the winery (at Rosemount B&B, which I highly recommend if you’re ever in the area: gorgeous homestead with a lovely host) and braved the holidaying crowds at the cellar door. What was I thinking of? Easter + cellar door = bun fight.
Not only did they have a Pinotage; they had a Pinotage-based rose! Of course, curiosity got the better of me and I felt impelled to try them to see if that rotten meat/cheesy character was a varietal trait or something South African. It was varietal. The Bell Ringer Pinotage wasn’t too bad with a bright violet appearance, with red cherry fruit, white pepper and….rotten meat. Unlike most Pinotages I’ve had, it was quite light on the tannin front and had light to medium body. 16.5/20 but it didn’t ring my bell.
I’ve been asking myself whether Hawke’s Bay should be concentrating on Syrah or Bordeaux blends for a few months now – and it seems the same question is floating around on Waiheke Island.
Bordeaux blends initially put the island on the map but Syrah is now creeping up behind it and making a big splash.
Syrah is my favourite grape variety so I’ll admit I could be a bit biased but in my opinion, the Syrahs from Waiheke better reflect their sense of place than Cabernet blends. Feel free to disagree but that’s the way I see it.
The Bordeaux blends are very good, often elegant (although some aren’t so good: I don’t think Cabernet and American oak go together) with black ripe fruits, firm tannic structure and medium to high alcohol.
There are green capsicum (even brussel sprout) notes found in many Cabernets here alongside a ripeness of fruit and tannin that you don’t find in Bordeaux. The green aromas are not unpleasant at all (hey, it’s Cabernet’s varietal character) but in a cooler year, ripening can be an issue. Neil Culley, founder of Cable Bay says, “The Cabernet sites need to be warm right to the end of the season so they need to be in the middle of the island or sheltered sites.” Cool sea breezes scupper Cabernet’s chances of ripening and some sites are certainly not suited to it.
But the Syrah screams class in a glass. It’s unique and performs consistently year to year. Yes, it’s a vigorous little bugger but on a low vigour site and with careful management, boy is it characterful.
Daniel Schuster (no relation of Michael), a flying wine consultant with Stag’s Leap and Chateau Palmer on his CV, says, “There are Bordeaux varieties here and it is obvious they are working. But the Syrah is the closest I have seen to classic Rhone. They have Syrah that doesn’t taste like marmalade, full of American oak.” Which Syrah producing region are you referring to, I wonder Danny?!!
The Syrahs here are full of blackberry, violets, floral notes and, although many try to deny their wines are peppery, they are. Get over it – some of us kinda like it.
If I were a producer on Waiheke, I’d be planting Syrah and I think this should be the Island’s flagship. Duncan McTavish, winemaker at Man O’War, the island’s largest producer, says, “I don’t think we necessarily need a flagship. The two can co-exist. We built our reputation on Bordeaux blends. Syrah is the new kid on the block and it has made a big statement early on. But we can’t focus on one to the detriment of the other.”