The Alternative Future for South Africa
Monday 6 September
Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc continue to dominate shelf space in 2010 but does that mean they are the future too?
Having judged at the Australian Alternative Varieties Wine Show in 2008, it’s clear there is growing interest in non-international varieties in the New World, and South Africa is no exception.
The latest industry figures show Chenin Blanc still leads the planting chart with Cabernet Sauvignon, Colombard, Syrah, and Sauvignon Blanc completing the top five. There are still relatively few hectares of Mediterranean varieties including Sangiovese, Barbera, Roussanne, Grenache, and Mourvedre but visit many wineries in the Western Cape, and they are quite the fashionable thing to be planting or adding to a blend.
Francois Haasbroek of Waterford Estate says, “I think that more people are opening up to the fact that Cabernet and Shiraz are not the be all and end all.”
So, is the emergence of varieties better suited to Mediterranean climes a consequence of global warming? Not necessarily, claims Wilhelm Pienaar, red winemaker at Nederburg. “We are anticipating people getting bored of the traditional varieties.”
“There’s a big drive to experiment and use new varieties like Tempranillo – and we are looking at it quite intensively,” he added. The major producer has an experimental vineyard, trying out 30 lesser-known varieties.
Chris Williams, winemaker at Meerlust, has his own label The Foundry, specialising in varieties like Grenache Blanc, Viognier and Roussanne. “Yes, there’s increasing interest in Mediterranean varieties,” he said, “but I don’t think they will ever be the majority: Shiraz, Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon do well and always will.”
It’s good to see that there’s a willingness to experiment. Ok, so the end of Cabernet is not nigh but this is one trend that is adding interest to the South African portfolio.
South Africa: Safari so goodie
Tuesday 31 August
So I’ve finally made it to South Africa after eight years working in the wine industry and this being Africa, day one meant safari.
I’m not sure what I was expecting as I boarded the Big 5 Wine Safari vehicle at Warwick Estate in Stellenbosch but it wasn’t a comparison between a white rhino and Sauvignon Blanc, that’s for sure. But life is full of surprises.
Wrapped in a fuchsia pink blanket to stave off the cold spring day, our tour guide Ivan took us around the wine safari, also known as a vineyard tour.
“Cabernet Sauvignon,” he said “is like a lion. The lion is the king of the jungle. When Cabernet is young, it is aggressive on the palate; as it becomes older, the tannins calm down, just like when a lion ages.”
Hmm, a bit tenuous, but I see what you’re driving at Ivan and I’ve never heard a wine compared to a wild animal before. It’s refreshing for a wine journalist who has seen enough stainless steel tanks and barrels to last a life time.
Sauvignon Blanc…which of the Big 5 safari animals would it be? The white rhino, of course. The link was fresh green grass: the rhino eats it; the wine smells like it.
Cabernet Franc is apparently like an elephant because they both have thick skin and you can keep the wine for a very long time. Warwick does a single varietal Cab Franc, a relative rarity in South Africa, but I couldn’t see any relation to Dumbo or Nelly.
The buffalo is another safari favourite but it’s unpredictable and wild hence the comparison with Pinotage. And last but not least Merlot gets likened to a leopard – because it’s smooth. For wine connoisseurs, it might seem a bit silly but the wine industry needs a bit of fun injected into its rear end. It’s a great way to educate the consumer, link the wine trade with a successful tourism industry - and make wine seem less elitist.
New Zealand Pinotage rings alarm bells
Monday 5 April
I can’t stand Pinotage. It smells of rotten meat and stilton, which isn’t attractive. I know I will incur the wrath of the South African wine industry for saying it but I’ve always been taught honesty is the best policy.
Outside of South Africa, I see little reason for producers to make it. I can understand it’s a signature variety for South Africans and when it comes up in a blind tasting I’m always pleased as you can spot it a mile off. But with the wide array of varieties on offer around the world, why on earth would you make Pinotage outside of South Africa?
I ask this question as during the Easter weekend, I popped into Ascension Wine Estate in Matakana. I was staying over the road from the winery (at Rosemount B&B, which I highly recommend if you’re ever in the area: gorgeous homestead with a lovely host) and braved the holidaying crowds at the cellar door. What was I thinking of? Easter + cellar door = bun fight.
Not only did they have a Pinotage; they had a Pinotage-based rose! Of course, curiosity got the better of me and I felt impelled to try them to see if that rotten meat/cheesy character was a varietal trait or something South African. It was varietal. The Bell Ringer Pinotage wasn’t too bad with a bright violet appearance, with red cherry fruit, white pepper and….rotten meat. Unlike most Pinotages I’ve had, it was quite light on the tannin front and had light to medium body. 16.5/20 but it didn’t ring my bell.
South Africa makes it onto the rostrum
Tuesday 23 February
South Africa is now selling more wine in the UK than France. You would have got very long odds for that happening if you’d placed a bet 15 years ago.
The latest Nielsen stats put three New World countries on the UK’s best-selling rostrum: Australia, the US (well, California) along with the Safas. What a turn around in 20 years. According to the OIV, new world producing wine countries had 3% of the market in the late 1980s but in 2008, it was 30% and its share is clearly continuing to grow.
In the past year, South African wine sales have increased 20% by volume to 12.27m cases, while French wine sales continued on their slide into the abyss, dropping 12% to 12.26m cases.
Interestingly, South Africa released its volume figures but not its value figures, which leaves us guessing. Anyone venturing into a UK supermarket, will see there are plenty of deals on South African wine, which have been driving volumes and not value.
As Australia and Chile have seen, cheap isn’t cheerful for your wine industry. If you sell at less than a fiver, that damages perceptions of your wine industry and it’s difficult to claw your way out of that.
Nevertheless, South Africa has come a long way and the World Cup is coming in June putting the country firmly on the map.
Where’s all the Sauvignon?
Wednesday 6 January
Crikey, who’d have thought it would be so difficult to get a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc in New Zealand?
I am currently searching for a South African, Chilean and Loire Sauvignon for a Master of Wine tasting practice with Lynnette Hudson, winemaker at Pegasus Bay. But it is proving rather difficult. I called respected merchant Vino Fino in Christchurch and they could only help me out with the Sancerre - but it will cost me $52 (£23) for the privilege. When you’re such a strong Sauvignon player, the assistant told me, you can’t sell Sauvignons from the rest of the world. I guess it’s the same in most wine-producing countries. New Zealand’s wines are of an enviable standard but it’s a shame people aren’t able to try styles beyond their borders.
I was clearly spoiled for choice in London where the local independent merchant would always have something from Leyda, Stellenbosch and Touraine on the shelves. Unfortunately you don’t realise how lucky you are until you move away.
Now I am horribly aware that trying to do tasting practice for the MW in the UK is a) less hassle and b) cheaper than doing it elsewhere - although living costs and exorbitant travel fares add up (£4.10 for a single on the tube is a joke, Boris).
So, if anyone from the UK is coming over to Auckland, could you stick a bottle of Rueda/Argentine Torrontes/anything from South Africa in your luggage for me?