New World adopts historic techniques
Thursday 30 September
Amphoras at Hamilton Russell (photograph: Amelia Aragon - thanks chick!)
The New World is not all stainless steel tanks and modern winemaking methods. Many producers are going back to more ‘natural winemaking’ and one of South Africa’s leading Chardonnay producers is planning on fermenting 10-15% of its wine in clay amphoras next year.
Hamilton Russell Vineyards in the Hemel-en-Aarde valley has started experiementing with amphora. In 2009 the Chardonnay component (12%) of its Ashbourne Sandstone Sauvignon Blanc Chardonnay of the 09 blend was amphora fermented.
In 2011, it plans to ferment and mature 10-15% of its straight Chardonnay in amphora – a wine that has become renowned worldwide.
Owner Anthony Hamilton Russell says: ‘People obsess with tasting a barrel influence in their wines but we are experimenting with amphora stoneware to see if they can provide the maturation of a barrel without the flavour pick up.’
He reports that the shape of the amphora promotes natural circulation in the vessel during fermentation. The wine will stay on gross lees for 6-7 months and then go to tank for blending with the barrel-fermented component. As the clay vessels allow micro-oxygenation it mimics barrel ageing.
However, it hasn’t all been plain sailing up to now. They originally tried terracotta amphoras but they were too porous and have moved to clay. Another issue is the amphoras are quite pricey. ‘We need to negotiate harder with the potter who makes our amphora. They are still priced as ornamental vessels and we need to get the prices closer to those of our barrels,’ he said.
If things go according to plan, the wine will be released in 2013.
We might think that new technology and new advancements lead to better wine but the Romans (and their amphora) knew what they were doing!
Sounds like an interesting project.
- by Hamish Wakes-Miller, Bella Wines
Wow, that sounds crazy!? Do you know if the wine will be heavily marketed as having gone through such a process or is the progess purely for taste?Do the Greeks still use this process ever?
- by Jim Gore
I reckon it’s more for mouthfeel rather than marketing. I picked up on it at the winery but they rather downplayed it. I know that Josko Gravner still uses the process but I have to admit my knowledge of Greek wines is rather scant. Any Greek experts out there?
- by Rebecca
If the potters are going to invoice for ornamental vessels, Hamilton-Russell should at least make them do some nice designs on the outside of the amphorae.
- by Paul Kiernan
Well have a look at one of the winemakers we ( at http://www.evineage.com) work with in Austria, Ewald Tscheppe.
see his website (http://www.werlitsch.at)
- by John Sterk
Not sure I understood it all but the pictures told a cool story. I presume they bury the Amphora’s because of a constant temperature? They certainly look less ornamental than at Hamilton Russel. Thanks John
- by jim gore
Nicolas Joly has been playing with amphorae for some years now.
The Romans only started putting wine in wooden casks after they started to expand their empire. Having acquired a taste for the stuff they needed to transport it to far-flung foreign outposts.I’d imagine the chances of a wagon load of amphorae filled with Montepulciano d’Abruzzo arriving intact at Hadrain’s Wall would be pretty slim!
- by Ernie Whalley