New Zealand could follow in Germany’s footsteps
Thursday 11 February
After a three-course dinner, several glasses of wine and some unusual entertainment at the end of Pinot Noir 2010, it was Oz Clarke’s turn to get up and shake up the New Zealand wine industry.
His rhetoric got a standing ovation. Luckily I was being a conscientious journo and had my pad and pen to hand when he spoke – so here are a few snippets for those of you who weren’t there – and those of you that have fuzzy, boozy memories of the evening.
The point is New Zealand is in danger of shooting itself in the foot if it doesn’t sort its supply-demand balance. We all know this. If it is seen as a sub £5 supplier of Sauvignon Blanc that tarnishes the whole country’s image and its other varieties. Could Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc become the next Liebfraumilch? Let’s hope not.
Oz said: “There’s an ocean of Sauvignon Blanc hitting the shelves in the UK. What’s that got to do with Pinot Noir? Quite a lot.”
“Germany was the leading supplier of wine in the UK in the 1980s. The Brits greedily guzzled it for a few years but the pursuit of great profit ruined their reputation.”
“Less than a generation later, Australia fuelled the British wine revolution with Shiraz and Chardonnay.”
“Aussie Chardonnay became the discount junkie’s paradise. The pursuit of short term profit mutilated Australia’s reputation.”
“Don’t think it could not happen to you, it’s happened twice before in the past 30 years.”
“Consumers will say top quality Pinot Noir [from New Zealand]? That’s where the cheap Sauvignon Blanc comes from. The expensive jewel, the sought after Pinot suddenly looks far too dear.”
We were all thinking it; Oz said it. Honesty spoken with a bit of Oz theatricals thrown in is the best policy.
I have been reading these doomsday comments for some months and it seems to me everyone is missing the real story.
New Zealand is a tiny wine producing country that is moving to the next chapter in its history and is producing a wide range of wines. For some reason the conversation got stuck on some low end products that were not available before.
I doubt these low end products will go away. I am also confident that the fact about 85% of all New Zealand wine producers are artisan in scope will become the next story from New Zealand. This is really exciting and no one is reporting on it. Why is that?
I am also confident this group of producers will continue to delight consumers around the world with their small case lot production. They just need to stand up and tell their unique stories with a much more vigorous voice.
For those consumers into the lower price tiers of wine, New Zealand like France, Italy, Spain, California, Chile, Argentina etc all offer lots of choices. No country produces just one tier of pricing.
Consumers who enjoy artisan wines from around the world need to ask their retailers “how many cases of this wine were produced or who made this wine”—this will help them find the better retailers tuned into what is on their shelves and the world of wine.
New Zealand is pretty special and someone needs to get up and change the record. It’s stuck.
- by Ron McFarland, New Zealand Food Wines, Denver Colo
I think it’s probably a case of good news is not news in the media. However, I think that there are lots of great stories being written about - I am in the process of writing features about smaller wineries, sub regions and interesting wine at the moment. And I know a lot of other people reporting on it too.
I also think the New Zealand wine industry has to make its voice heard a little louder - tell their story and stop being so conservative. This was repeated time and again at Pinot Noir 2010.
If they don’t shout about it, no one will.
- by Rebecca
Thanks for publishing my comment. In no way was I suggesting Oz Clarke is wrong. I think he cares deeply for New Zealand and understands the magic it is capable of and does not want to see it lost or diluted.
Maybe what he was saying was something like “this is really special and make sure you figure out how to keep it alive”.
I just want the entire range to be understood - not one end or other of the spectrum.
- by Ron McFarland
You’re right Ron, I think that’s what Oz was saying. It’s great that you care enough to make a comment and champion the industry. They need more of you!
- by Rebecca