Prosecco, but not as we know it
Monday 29 August
To be or not to be Prosecco? That is my question
In July 2009, the EU ruled that producers making Prosecco outside of the DOC and new DOCG area in the Veneto region would be forced to use the new grape name Glera on their labels instead of Prosecco.
So, on my return to New Zealand from Blighty, I was a little puzzled to be presented with a bottle of Toi Toi ‘New Zealand Prosecco’. What the….?
It’s not made from the grape formally known as Prosecco (‘Glera’) but a blend of Riesling, Muller-Thurgau and Pinot Gris. The sparkle is not created by the tank method, used in the Prosecco region but carbonated. So, I am curious as to why the front label clearly states Prosecco on the front. The accompanying press release claims it is “produced to broadly reflect the origins and style of the Italian wine”. Well, it’s 11.5% alcohol, which is about right, medium-dry with apple and pear characters but I’m not sure the Venetians will be overly impressed by the quality of the contents.
John Barker, general counsel for New Zealand Winegrowers shed some light on the matter. If this wine is only sold in New Zealand, there should be no problem, as there is no agreement with the EU on this law.
Barker says, “It’s a bit of a funny position the Italians have taken. There’s no geographical area called Prosecco if you look on a map – the GI is an artefact of EU law. There’s no grape variety called Prosecco either because the grape is Glera.
“It’s absolute nonsense,” he adds.
So, the only domestic stumbling block comes from if the label is considered to be misleading – and that’s a personal matter. Personally, I think it’s misleading but you can make your own mind up.
I think wine should be sold on the merits of what it is, and this is not Prosecco ...
A few NZ Wine people were upset at ‘Kiwi’ brand Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire when it came out. There is no Kiwi ‘geographical area’ either ~ same, but different example?
- by Fraser Mackenzie, Auckland
Thanks Fraser, good points. Will be interesting to see what other people think too.
Best wishes,
Rebecca
- by Rebecca
Hello Lady of all things wine!
In Valdobbiadene last week speaking with Primo Franco, of Nino France fame, he was not impressed with producers in the New World calling their wines Prosecco at all.
A very impressive and proud producer of premium Prosecco, Primo thought it was a joke that there was new ‘competition’ for him that was quite far removed the wines coming from the hills around him in Veneto.
That aside, let’s just be smart about it and if you make sparkling wine from Glera, call it Glera. I can’t believe Toi Toi is even calling their wine Prosecco due to the varieties used. That’s like buying a bottle of apple juice only to find when you open it, it is actually Peach Nectar. But hey, apple juice probably sells better….right?
- by Tennille Chalmers, Chalmers Wine, Australia
It seems to be that this wine is already been sold overseas : Us , Uk , H.K., China , Thailand and Hawaii; not to mentioned just about all Pack & Save and various sorts of supermarket around the country . .Is there anywhere else left ? It must be an extremely low yields made wine .I add no more .
- by Alberto Cenci
I’m afraid its the same old story. No-one hears of Prosecco for ages and then just when it breaks cover, everyone wants to make it. Not only are the greedy Italians allowing it to be made in an increasingly larger area at home, now others are doing the same. Shame on NZ I say. It is well beneath your normal standards.
- by Graham Sherwood
A very important italian newspaper today:
http://www.ilgiornale.it/economia/il_prosecco_ora_arriva_nuova_zelanda/17-11-2011/articolo-id=557449-page=0-comments=1
will Toi Toi do anything??
- by Antonio Pizzinatu, Venice