Sauvignon Gris: a Susan Boyle wine
Wednesday 17 February
Montana’s new Reserve Sauvignon Gris arrived on my doorstep last week. The press release from Pernod Ricard-owned Montana exclaimed it was “inspiring new horizons” with the launch of this fringe variety and I was interested to try it. Unfortunately, I’d be lying if I said I liked it: the wine was confused.
So what is this Sauvignon Gris shananigans? According to Oz Clarke’s book, Grapes and Wines, Sauvignon Gris is a pink mutation of Sauvignon Blanc. Apparently “it gives 20% lower yields than Sauvignon Blanc, one degree more alcohol and a less pungent but spicier aroma.”
Interestingly, Chateau Smith Haut-Lafite in Pessac Leognan adds 5% of Gris to its delicious Sauvignon Blanc.
This wasn’t Smith Haut-Lafite. It had a real Sauvignon Blanc nose of green pepper (also known as capsicum to you non-Brits) and gooseberry. My brain and palate were ready for a light bodied, zippy Sauvignon but it got a weighty Gris mouthful with lowish acidity. It’s a bit of a Susan Boyle – you think you know what to expect and then find out you were completely wrong. Unfortunately this wasn’t a pleasant surprise.
Another concern is, who is the target market? Is it the Sauvignon Blanc drinker or the Pinot Gris guzzler? They’re very different audiences and this variety seems to please neither camp. And at NZ$23.99, I won’t be urging you to rush out and buy it. But if you want to try a wine with a split personality, this is the one for you.
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That’s a real shame.
This was fab in the vineyards and in tank; had a marked passionfruit quality that set it apart from the methoxy based characteristics of many of the other SBs. It also looks great on the vine.
Maybe it just needs a bit more time to settle in bottle?
- by vinosity consulting, UK
Hi Rebecca,
I tried my first Sauvignon Gris the other day, “Leyda Kadun 2009”, from the Leyda region of Chile. I really liked it. Smelled like a Sauvignon Blanc but had a bit more weight and a yummy passionfruit component. Seems there are a few examples down here to try.
Cheers,
Andrew
- by Andrew Halliwell, Chile
I’ve tried other S Gris in Chile too and quite liked them. This one wasn’t for me though. I’ve spoken to a few other people in the trade in NZ who have tried this wine and didn’t think much of the attempts here either so I know I’m not alone!
- by Rebecca
This is exactly what I thought of the wine. I feel that Montana are trying to appeal to two groups of wine buyer/drinker but they are so far removed from one another I can’t see it working in the New World.
- by Jayson Bryant, The Wine Vault